Euphoria ntawm kev zoo nkauj. Haute Couture Week nyob Paris

2024 Tus sau: James Gerald | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-17 14:08

Ntshav ua yeeb yam los ntawm Christian Dior, Hollywood nyiam los ntawm Giorgio Armani, Coco hauv Kev Hlub los ntawm Chanel, tsis muaj qhov hnyav los ntawm Revillon thiab Madonna hais tawm ntawm Jean Paul Gaultier sau. Txij hnub Monday txog Wednesday, Paris tau koom ua yeeb yam zoo tshaj plaws ntawm lub ntiaj teb - Paris haute couture lub lim tiam lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav-lub caij ntuj sov 2006.

Qhia ntawm Revillon sau

Yuav hu li cas lub cim ntawm Paris Haute Couture lub lim tiam? Paris hauv qhov ci ntawm cov tsheb hlawv? Los yog txawv txawv Christian Dior sau qhia hnub Monday? Zoo li cov ntshav tawg ua khaub ncaws thiab lub ntsej muag daj daj tuag ntawm cov qauv zam - cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm kev npau suav tsis paub kawg thiab kev xav ua npaws Jonah Galliano.

Christian Dior sau qhia

Txoj kev twg los xij uas koj xav txog qhov kev ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj thiab zoo nkauj nrog cov lus qhia txog ntshav Fab Kis Kev Tawm Tsam Xyoo 1789, nws yog qhov ua yeeb yam zoo. Txawm hais tias muaj kev ua yeeb yam thiab tsis ncaj ncees rau pej xeem, Galliano nthuav tawm cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj (ultra-sadistic tau ntxim hlub bustiers, ntau txoj hlua, fluffy chiffon tiab) uas tus qhua ntawm qhov yeeb yam, Mischa Barton, cia li tso dej tawm.

Qhov kawg ntawm qhov yeeb yam thaum kawg ua tiav cov neeg tuaj saib - pawg neeg ua phem nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws tawv, poj niam siab phem dab nyob hauv platinum wigs a la Marie Antoinette thiab qhov tshwm sim tam sim ntawd ntawm Galliano, txawj siv rab ntaj thiab ua kom zoo dua cov khaub ncaws tawv - cov tub rog nyiam, thiab tag nrho cov ntawd!

"Kuv xav qhia koj qee yam ua siab tawv, xav tsis thoob," piav qhia John Galliano rau nws cov phooj ywg Penelope Cruz, Marisa Berenson thiab tus thawj coj Bernard Arnault tom qab ua yeeb yam. Thiab nws muab tawm cov yeeb yam qib siab, kev npau suav ntawm txhua tus couturier thiab pej xeem, mob siab rau tsom iav, kom paub meej txawm tias xaiv Marquis de Sade yuav zoo siab

Nyob rau tib yam Giorgio Armani hnub nthuav tawm cov ntawv sau uas tau tawm tsam tag nrho hauv kev tsim: "haute couture ntawm lub verge ntawm kev muaj tiag." Ntawd yog, cov qauv rau cov poj niam uas xav saib zoo nkauj heev thaum nruab hnub (haum lub tsho, lub ris ncaj thiab tiab xaum) thiab zoo nkauj zoo nkauj thaum yav tsaus ntuj (hnav yav tsaus ntuj nrog qhov tsis sib xws ntawm lub tiab lossis daim tiab zoo nkauj ntxaum cascade, tawv nqaij bustiers uas tsim cov nyhuv liab qab nqaij strewn nrog Swarovski muaju).

Giorgio Armani sau qhia

Txawm li cas los xij, yog tias koj tsis tsom mus rau lub kaus mom hlau thiab hnav khaub ncaws nrog daim tiab uas nthuav tawm zoo li lub kaus puam, tom qab ntawd peb yuav pom cov khoom sau uas tsuas yog ntxim nyiam rau poj niam qhov muag.

Txij li Armani nthuav tawm nws thawj couture sau Prive Xyoo tas los, raws li maestro, nws tau tshem ntawm ntau qhov ua tsis tau zoo (nws yog qhov txawv me ntsis kom hnov cov lus ntawd los ntawm daim di ncauj ntawm tus huab tais zam lub hnub nyoog 70 xyoo, tsis yog?). Qhov no txhais tau tias tus tswv tau pom muaj kev sib haum xeeb tsis txaus ntseeg ntawm cov xim ntawm cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho zoo nkauj thiab txoj hlua khi ntawm qhov txiav ntawm lub tsho ntawm qhov hnav no.

Ib txoj kab nqes hav tau teeb tsa tawm tsam nraub qaum ntawm Arabian suab puam yog lwm qhov piv txwv rau haute couture lub lim tiam. Tsis muaj ib yam ua tsis tau ntawm no. Thiab tsuas yog txoj hauv kev no, cov dej khov tiv thaiv cov nraub qaum ntawm cov xuab zeb dunes thiab tshav ntuj kub hnyiab tau pom Valentino sau … Lub dunes tau tiag tiag, thiab cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws hnav dawb nrog paj ntaub thiab hlua ntawm ob sab tau siv ua dej khov.

Valentino sau qhia

"Kuv xav tau qhov kaj thiab tsis muaj dab tsi ntxiv," - hais tsis meej roman couturier cov … Tej zaum nws txhais tau tias nws tau ua nws qhov zoo tshaj plaws, ua tiav txhua qhov quav, nqaws thiab lub tshuab xaum me me uas zoo li tsis hnyav li nplej ntawm cov xuab zeb.

Cov txiaj ntsig tau zoo heev, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nrog kev hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub hnub poob thiab daj ntseg tsis muaj xim ntsuab. Txawm hais tias muaj qhov ua yuam kev me me (lossis raisins?). Koj tuaj yeem hais dab tsi txog lub teeb lub caij ntuj sov hnav khaub ncaws uas txuas ncaj qha rau lub tsho khiab mis? Los yog lub tsho uas haum uas koj txhawj xeeb pib tos kom lawv sib nrug ntawm cov nqaws dej?

Nws yog qhov txawv uas Valentino, paub dav rau nws txoj kev ua tub rog zoo tag nrho, ua qhov yuam kev no. Puas yog qhov no zoo ib yam li kev zoo nkauj uas cov tub ntxhais hluas lub hnub qub thiab cov yeeb yam ua yeeb yam pib ua?

Lub caij no Karl Lagerfeld: 5 Lab tus kiv cua tos koj rau Webtalk! hauv chav iav pob tshab ntawm Grand Palais, nws tau qhia txog Chanel sau, uas cov neeg thuam hu ua "Coco in Love". Kev sau yog lub teeb thiab ntxim nyiam, hais lus tsis sib haum xeeb, qhov muag muag xwm txheej ntawm Lagerfelduas Charlemagne nyiam tsis qhia.

Chanel sau qhia

Ib qho tsis ntxim nyiam, sib npaug silhouette, tsho bolero thiab lub tsho zoo nkauj. Kuj tseem muaj cov plaub hau rhinestone thiab cov khau siab tiaj tiaj. "Qhov tseem ceeb yog daim ntawv maj mam", - piav qhia Lagerfeld tom qab qhov kawg tso rau hauv ris ntauv txhav thiab khau Ugg stylish.

Vim li cas qhov kev sau no thov kom "tshwj xeeb"? Leej twg yuav koj xav tsis thoob ntawm Haute Couture lub lim tiam? Vim tias qhov yeeb yam yog kev sib tw rau kev tshawb fawb foob pob hluav taws. Ntawm no yog kev txiav nruj thiab kev nplua nuj ntawm cov khoom dai tuaj ua ke. Pib nrog me ntsis tiab dub thiab xaus nrog tiab tshoob - menyuam hnav khaub ncaws menyuam yaus, lavishly txiav nrog lace, plaub thiab paj ntaub.

Nws zoo li yog ib qho classic, tab sis tib lub sijhawm tshiab thiab hluas heev. Tus qhua ntawm qhov yeeb yam, tus hu nkauj pob zeb Avril Lavigne, tau hais meej "pw qhov muag" ntawm kab tshoob tiab nrog paj, thiab nws tus neeg nyob ze Victoria Beckham zoo siab pauv nws cov khaub ncaws hnav dub zoo nkauj rau ib qho ntawm qhov zoo nkauj Chanel dresses.

Ntxiv rau Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix tig mus rau cov hauv paus hniav thiab keeb kwm. Cov khaub ncaws Spanish zoo nkauj, paj los ntawm cov tiaj nyom ntawm Provence, nrog rau keeb kwm yav dhau los zoo sib xws - saib dub thiab dawb ntawm lub nroog Arles. "Kuv xav tias nws yuav zoo rov qab mus rau qhov pib," piav qhia Lacroix, uas nws lub tsev zam tau npaj los ua kev zoo siab nws lub hnub nyoog 20 xyoos.

Lacroix sau qhia

Hloov qhov qub Lacroix lub zog qus ntawm cov xim thiab kho kom zoo nkauj, cov tiab zoo nkauj, cov ntaub mos muag thiab cov duab ncaj ncaj feem ntau nthuav tawm.

Lacroix sau qhia

Cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm Lub Limtiam ua haujlwm tau zoo - poj niam lub caj dab, ruffles thiab paj thaum kawg ua tiav cov duab "Zoo nkauj Senorita" hauv xim dub thiab dawb. Txhua tus qauv ntawm kev sau sau zoo li muaj txiaj ntsig, txawm tias ib daim tiab tsis zoo nkauj - ib yam ntawm Lacroix ntxim nyiam tau hnov nyob txhua qhov chaw. Tog twg los Fabkis-Asmeskas kev zoo nkauj tsis meej pem los ntawm lub caij nyoog, lossis nws muaj kev cia siab tias nws qhov kev txawj ntse yuav tau txais txiaj ntsig los ntawm cov neeg txawj ntse uas muaj tswv yim uas muaj Visa Infinity.

Hnub Wednesday, hnub kawg ntawm Lub Limtiam, tsis muaj leej twg xav tias yuav muaj kev nkag siab, thiab ntawm Jean Paul Gaultier qhia, cov kws yees duab feem ntau nyiam cov qhua - Nws Majesty Madonna - couturier tus phooj ywg hauv siab. Tab sis Great Girl's Dresser tsis yooj yim ib yam. Gaultier nthuav qhia cov khoom "Athenian", qhov twg cov qauv muaj npe raws li - Lesbos, Aristotle, Sophocles …

Jean Paul Gaultier qhia

Cov khaub ncaws hnav hnyav, tsho hnav khaub ncaws nrog lub tes tsho dav thiab ib hom "hybrid" - tshwj xeeb tsho los ntawm Gaultier Nrog txoj hlua caj dab dav thiab chiffon ntxig, classic tuxedos yooj yim ua ke nrog tiab luv hauv kub thiab nyiaj paj ntaub.

Tus tsim qauv txawj ntse ib txhij qhia cov qauv yooj yim thiab ntxim nyiam ntawm qhov sib piv nrog cov khaub ncaws tshwj xeeb zoo li hnav ntev nrog lub tsho txawv txawv thiab lub cev liab qab. Thiab hauv qhov kawg, tus tsim qauv tau nthuav dav taw tes - nthuav cov uas tam sim no nrog paj paj dawb. Tau kawg, nws tus phooj ywg Madge tau txais ntau tshaj.

Ua si nws cov game zoo Elie Saib, tus kws tshaj lij tsim qauv qub los ntawm Libya.46 hnav khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj rau txhua qhov saj thiab xim nrog hint ntawm Spanish thiab Edwardian yam thiab ib qho yooj yim silhouette uas swb los ntawm Chanel thiab Lacroix sau. Pom tseeb, Saab cov qauv zoo meej rau cov poj niam mus rau Academy Awards, thiab qhov tseeb tias tsawg tus poj niam tuaj yeem them taus cov khaub ncaws zoo li tsuas yog ntxiv rau nws qhov kev thov.

Tom qab peb hnub, thaum lub sijhawm kev ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj ntawm cov nplai thoob ntiaj teb tau tshwm sim, nws tau pom meej rau txhua qhov tsis muaj zog ib nrab ntawm tib neeg uas Parisian Haute Couture Lub Limtiam - ib qho ntxiv, qhov pov thawj muaj txiaj ntsig ntawm yuav ua li cas cov txiv neej muaj peev xwm tshaj plaws thiab muaj tswv yim hauv ntiaj teb no hlub, qhuas thiab txaus siab rau peb poj niam.

Evelina Zoj

27.01.2006